Ecuador has some of the best beer in South America; the most popular brand is Pilsner. Good Chilean wine is available, alongside expensive and international drinks. Restaurants have waiter service and there are cafe-style bars.
Things to know: Alcohol cannot be sold after 0200.
National specialities:
• Llapingachos (pancakes stuffed with mashed potato and cheese).
• The best of the jungle fruits include chirimoya, with a delicious custard-like inside; mamey, which has a red, sweet, squash-like meat; and pepinos, a sweet white and purple striped cucumber-like fruit.
• Shrimp or lobster ceviche. This is traditionally accompanied by popcorn and chifles (thinly sliced and fried green bananas).
• Locro (stew of potatoes and cheese).
• Humitas (flavoured sweetcorn tamale).
• Roasted guinea pig.
• Patacones (squashed fried green bananas).
• Empanadas (hot crispy meat- or cheese-filled pastries).
National drinks:
• Naranjilla (fruit juice with a taste somewhere between citrus and peach).
• Canelazo, made from sugar cane, alcohol, lemon, sugar and cinnamon.
• Pisco, the local brandy.
Tipping: 10 per cent service charge is usually added to the bill in hotels and restaurants. Taxi drivers do not expect tips.

There is little nightlife except in Quito and Guayaquil where there are excellent restaurants and other attractions. In smaller towns, social life takes place in the home and in private clubs. The cinema is the most popular form of entertainment.

Bargaining is acceptable in small shops and in markets, but prices are usually fixed in ‘tourist stores’. A few stores around the major hotels have fixed prices. In the Province of Azuay, the cities of Cuenca and Gualaceo offer a wide variety of handicrafts at ferias or special market days. The top attractions are the ferias of Otavalo, Ambato, Latacunga, Saquisili and Riobamba, most held once a week. They offer the visitor excellent bargains for Indian crafts and silver. Principal silver stores are in Quito. Special purchases include native woodcarvings, varnished and painted ornaments made of bread dough, Indian tiles, woollen and orlon rugs, blankets, baskets, leather goods, shigras (shoulder bags) and hand-loomed textiles, indigenous art and native weapons. Shopping hours: Mon-Fri 1000-2000, Sat 0800-2100 (times are for shopping malls; local stores may have shorter opening hours). Some shops open Sunday.