There are plenty of small restaurants and coffee shops. The service tends to be slow, but the cuisine is delicious. Local specialities include mititeyi (small grilled sausages with onion and pepper) and mamaliga (thick, sticky maize pie) which is served with brinza (feta cheese). Tocana (pork stew) should be tried with sweet-and-sour watermelons and apples. There are more than 100 varieties of excellent wines produced in Moldova. White wines include Aligote, Riesling and Sauvignon. Moldovan Cabernet and Merlot are noteworthy reds. Doina or Nistru brandy is an ideal accompaniment with desserts.
Tipping: 5 to 10 per cent will be gladly accepted.

In Chisinau, there is a good selection of theatres and concerts halls, which includes an opera house. The Eminescu Music and Drama Theatre specialises in Romanian productions, as does the Youth Theatre Luceafarul (Poetic Star). All performances in the Chekhov Drama Theatre are exclusively in Russian (the building used to be the Chisinau Choral Synagogue). The Philharmonia Concert Hall houses Moldova’s Symphony Orchestra. It is also the base for the folklore Doina Choir, the internationally renowned Zhok National Dance Ensemble and the Fluerash Orchestra of National Music. Russian and Romanian productions can be seen in the puppet theatre Licurici (Glow-worm).

Good buys are the vividly coloured costumes, handmade carpets and locally produced wines and brandies. The main open-air market or tolchok is on Calea Mosilor, about 10 minutes’ drive away from central Chisinau. Although crowded, it sells everything and is a good place for bargains. Shopping hours: Larger shops open 0800-2000; all others open 0900-1700.