Iceland is a large island in the North Atlantic close to the Arctic Circle. The landscape is wild, rugged and colourful, with black lava, red sulphur, hot blue geysers, rivers, waterfalls and green valleys. Its coastline is richly indented with bays and fjords. Iceland is one of the most volcanically active countries in the world. Hekla, in the south of Iceland, has erupted no fewer than 16 times, and was once described by clergymen as the gateway to Hell. Certainly, Iceland's seething mountains contribute towards this sense of otherworldliness.

Yet around the coastal regions, Iceland is a bustle of activity, particularly in the capital city, Reykjavík, where more than half of Iceland's population lives. Reykjavík is set on a broad bay, surrounded by mountains, and is in an area of geothermal hot springs, creating a natural central heating system and pollution-free environment. It is a busy city combining old-fashioned wooden architecture and modern buildings. Despite being a relatively small capital city, Reykjavík has managed to forge a reputation for partying, and its nightclubs and bars are regularly filled with hordes of fun-loving citizens.

Nevertheless, the traditional side of Iceland prevails, as does the Icelander's repute as hardy and proud. Indeed, much of the fascination surrounding Iceland resides with the Icelanders themselves. Their descendents propagated the notion of the 'Viking poet', as unveiled in their heroic sagas: an intoxicating brew of brute force and sensitivity. In the mid-13th century, the islanders submitted to the authority of the King of Norway, and when Norway came under the control of Denmark in 1380, Iceland did too. In 1814, Norway became independent, but Iceland remained a Danish territory. In 1840, Iceland was granted its own constitution – effectively allowing internal self-government. Full independence was granted in 1918, although Iceland continued to recognise the Danish Monarch as head of state. It was not until 1944 that Iceland became a fully independent nation with its own head of state. It is therefore understandable that Icelanders now so ardently champion their heritage. Many long-established foods are still chomped with relish, and much traditional entertainment remains.

Perhaps, also, the Icelanders' character has been as shaped by the scenery as the scenery has been shaped by volatile forces of earth and elements. What is better is that whether you wish to exploit such stunning natural isolation and quietly watch for birds or whales, or whether you wish to go skiing, glacier skidooing or horse riding, Iceland amply provides for both. Although you may not go so far as to believe in magic and elves – over half of the population still do – you will certainly leave believing that Iceland is magical.