A good range of restaurants are available. Table service is common, although there are many inexpensive self-service restaurants. A typical menu offers two or three courses at inexpensive rates. Fine dairy and pastry shops (cukrászda) offer light meals. Eszpresszó coffee bars and Drink bars offer refreshments. Gerbeaud’s is probably Budapest’s most famous coffee-house. Things to know: There are no licensing hours, but the legal age for drinking in a bar is 18 years. Minors are allowed to go into bars but will not be served alcohol. National specialities: • Halászlé (fish soups). • Goulash gulyás soup (Western goulash is called pörkölt or tokány). • Stuffed vegetables. • Sweet cakes. • Gundel palacsinta (pancake). • Goose liver. • Paprikás csirke (paprika chicken). • Kolbasz (spicy sausage). • Samlói galuska (a sponge, chocolate, rum and cream dessert). National drinks: • Tokaji (strong dessert wine). • Bull’s Blood (strong red wine). • Pálinka or barack (apricot brandy). Tipping: 10 to 15 per cent is expected for nearly all services in restaurants, bars, clubs, taxis and so on. Budapest has many nightclubs, bars, discos and casinos. Cinemas in major towns show many English-language films. During the summer months the popular Lake Balaton resort has a lively nightlife. Western Hungary in particular has a lot of very good wine cellars. Visitors would do well to search out traditional folk music and dancing, as the gypsy music which is so common in restaurants is not considered the ‘true’ folk tradition of the country. The magnificent Budapest Opera House stages regular performances, and seats are (by Western standards) exceedingly cheap. Special purchases include embroideries, Herend and Zsolnay porcelain and national dolls. Shopping hours: Department stores are open from Mon-Sat 1000-1800. Food shops are open from Mon-Sat 0700-1800. Some shops open on Sundays.
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